An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Redcurrant, blackcurrant, aniseed and cedar, Throaties, quite some perfume too. It’s medium-bodied, fine and fresh, a bit stony and firm, dried herbs, mint and tobacco, with a lively and cool finish of super length. It’s got some get up and go. It will live a long time and it’s very much a classic expression of old school Clare Cabernet. Yes. Date: Aug 2024; Alcohol: 13.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2046+; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front