The dictionary definition of ‘Riposte’ (pronounced rip-posst) is comeback, reply, retort, or in the context of the sport of fencing a quick counter stroke. After over a decade of confusion about his name ‘Riposte’ was chosen as an appropriate name for a ‘comeback label’ by Tim Knappstein.

A truly excellent year for Pinot Gris. Mouth filling fresh cuts of pear and apple entwined with spice and floral nuances. Rich fruit resolves in a lingering finish of crisp acidity. Vibrant and lifted will develop additional depth over 2-3 years.

Do Riesling producers understand Pinot Gris better than most? It’s a question often posed and generally my answer is, yes. The symbiotic nature of the grapes and the attention to detail required of both is understood by those who cut their teeth on Riesling. It is revealed beautifully here in aromas that naturally elevate the aromatic – honeysuckle, spiced apple, ginger, lime, lemon – with just a touch of tarte tatin budding complexity. There is good depth of flavour in one so young joined by an emerging warm texture. The finish is sustained. A lovely, finely expressive Gris with some varietal spiciness sitting in the background adding that extra touch of class. Drink to: 2032; Price: $24.00; Rating: 93 Points; Jeni Port

This wine is called pinot gris but, in reality, it offers the best of both the pinot gris and pinot grigio styles. It has weight (of ripe flavour) and substance but it also tastes energetic and refreshing. Win-win. Red apple, pear and citrus flavours do the talking, the end result juicy, dry and delicious. Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $25.00; Closure: Screwcap; Rated: 92 Points; Campbell Mattinson

From the Adelaide Hills, the team like to split the fruit by keeping the free run apart from the pressings, the latter forming around 10% of the total. Around one quarter of the free run juice is fermented in French oak, the remainder in stainless steel. A pale bronze yellow hue, the nose offers crisp pear notes, spices, fresh green apples and florals. This is lean, elegant and refreshing, a wine with focus and direction, but there is a lift from the seductive texture. It is finely balanced, with good intensity, bright acidity and of medium length. Very attractive drinking for the next four to six years. Drink to: 2030; Price: $24.00; Rating: 92 Points; Ken Gargett