The old vines of Blewitt Springs are a precious resource, and an important part of Australia’s viticultural history. In early 2021, MMAD Vineyard was purchased by a quartet made up of winemakers Martin Shaw and Adam Wadewitz, and Masters of Wine Michael Hill Smith and David LeMire. MMAD takes its names from their first initials. The MMAD wines aim to reflect the unique terroir of Blewitt Springs and the rare old vines that thrive there, namely the Grenache planted in 1939, Shiraz planted in 1942 and Chenin Blanc planted in 1964.

The '23 vintage was wet and cool, and that plays out in the electric drive and vibrancy of fruit, though there is considerable intensity, too. There are orchard florals, along with Akane apple, green almond, stone fruit kernel and firm, just ripening peach along with briny sea spray notes. A mix of crushed and whole-bunch-pressed fruit fermented in concrete and old oak has built quiet texture, finely upholstering the structure, while also adding a refined pithiness of feel. There is a lot going on here but in such a serenely harmonious way, and it will age superbly, too. Date: Jan 2025; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $49.00; Drink by: 2035; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

Following the heights of the 2022 vintage the 2023 is leading the charge once again for a modern linear style of Chenin Blanc. This 2023 throwing out lifted perfume of Calla lily, fresh linen and yellow grapefruit pith. There is hulled almonds and raw cashew cream, kefir acidity and a coconut water freshness. Wet stone, crystal melon and white rind cheese. It has an exfoliating, almost gritty sensation that adds further dimension and texture. A long extended flavour palate hits the nail on the head for the moreish, drinkable quality its gaining a reputation for. Drink now with steamed clams and ginger sauce. Rating: 97 Points; Shanteh Wale