The old vines of Blewitt Springs are a precious resource, and an important part of Australia’s viticultural history. In early 2021, MMAD Vineyard was purchased by a quartet made up of winemakers Martin Shaw and Adam Wadewitz, and Masters of Wine Michael Hill Smith and David LeMire. MMAD takes its names from their first initials. The MMAD wines aim to reflect the unique terroir of Blewitt Springs and the rare old vines that thrive there, namely the Grenache planted in 1939, Shiraz planted in 1942 and Chenin Blanc planted in 1964.

The second release of this wine sees more depth and texture, reflecting an evolution of making after winemaker Adam Wadewitz got the measure of grape and site – on Maslin sands over ironstone. There’s chew and race in equal measure, with tart golden apples, ripe Meyer lemon, cool stone fruit, sea spray and savoury elements of crushed fennel seed, white pepper and a waxy chalkiness. Integrated barrel/mlf notes round out flavour and feel, with an intriguing saline slip to the palate complementing the subtle grip and the pleasing rip of natural acid. It’s a superb wine, thrillingly refined and detailed. The upward trajectory of this project is one to watch very closely. Date: Nov 2023; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $49.00; Drink by: 2033; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion