The goal of Leo Buring is a very simple one: to make the best Riesling in Australia. For Leo Buring this means wines of time and place, displaying purity, elegance and structure to ensure they age gracefully.

This famous name will be familiar to lovers of Australian riesling. In recent times it has turned its attention to Tasmania, here, the conical White Hills vineyard just south of Launceston. It's steely and focused with a lipsmacking mineral sapidity while showing the concentration that is becoming familiar off the 2023 vintage. Lime, lemon and grapefruit are stretched tautly over a frame of crushed stone and white flowers. Precise, driving and just wonderful drinking, it's a superb example of tension, clarity and velocity, with pristine fruit travelling true and dry and leaving an ache of umami in its wake. Drink to: 2040; Alcohol: 11%; Price: $40.00; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion