Domaine Labruyère is the Beaujolais estate of the top-flight French vigneron family behind Champagne Labruyère and famed Burgundy producer Jacques Prieur. Now in its seventh generation, Domaine Labruyère is one of the oldest wineries in the Moulin-a-Vent appellation. Its history here dates back to 1850, when wine grower Jean-Marie Labruyère settled in les Thorins, a hamlet of Romanèche-Thorins.

The deep nose of licorice, dried thyme and ripe wild blackberry leads you to expect a rich wine, but in fact this is very clean with an uplifting freshness that makes it very hard to believe it has 14.5% alcohol. Impressive concentration, silky tannins and elegant mineral acidity interlock on the beautifully balanced palate. Drink or hold. Tasted: February 2023; Rating: 93 Points; James Suckling