Mark Walpole is arguably one of Australia's greatest viticulturalists and his interest in cool climate viticulture led him from his home in the Ovens Valley to the elevated Beechworth plateau at the top of the Escarpment above the Murmungee basin. His wines combine a unique expression of the vineyard site, its management; and the greater regional influences. The red wines are made using minimal intervention, using indigenous yeasts and open fermentation. Whites are barrel fermented using both indigenous and cultured yeasts depending on variety and style.

From vines planted in 1978, fermented and matured for 18 months in new and used French oak, partial mlf. The power, intensity and depth of the wine comes from the low yield of these venerable vines. Ripe white nectarine/peach is offset by grapefruit pith and flinty acidity.

A scintillating chardonnay purity on show here from a vintage that goes down as one of Beechworth's coldest growing seasons and vintages. It fairly crackles in racy acidity and tangy acid drive. Up to the challenge is a fruit profile that adds flesh and character with a world of citrus explored – citrus blossom florals, Meyer lemon, grapefruit, lime zest – with quince, white peach and Asian pear. Built on a fine-etched, sherbet-like acidity, it finishes on a high with a lasting flinty kick. Date: Sept 2025; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $95.00; Drink by: 2033; Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion