Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
This is aromatically similar but with even more floral character that is also reflected by the intense, punchy and tautly muscular medium-bodied flavors that possess both better density as well as more structure on the youthfully austere finale. This is going to require at least 5 years of cellaring to become more civilized and is built to reward a decade or more. Tasted: Jan 19; Drink: 2027+; Issue: 73; Rating 89-92 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
Aromas of plums, cherries, raw cocoa, espresso roast and grilled meats introduce the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru, a medium-bodied wine with tangy acids and a succulent core of fruit that largely conceals its fine structuring tannins. Tasted: Jan 19; Rating: 90-92 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
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