Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
Unfurling in the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, dark chocolate, rose petals, orange rind, burning embers and spices, the 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a deep, concentrated and multidimensional core that's framed by rich, powdery tannins and impressively lively acids. This is a dramatic wine that hasn't yet shut down, but I wouldn't plan on opening bottles for at least a dozen years. Date: Jan 2021; Drink: 2030-2060; Rating: 96 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
Discreet but not imperceptible wood and menthol characters set off very ripe liqueur-like aromas of black raspberry, cassis, floral and plenty of sauvage nuances. The sleekly textured and impressively intense large-scaled flavors possess evident power on the dusty, serious and palate coating finish that is definitely quite grippy and a bit coarse, indeed even a bit chewy. I like the overall fruit/tannin/sap balance and while it will take extended bottle age, this borderline massive wine should eventually mature into a magnificent CdlR. Tasted: Jan 2021; Drink: 2038+; Issue: 81; Rating: 95 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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