Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.
The Sundial vineyard in Wehlen is almost nothing but broken shards of blue Devonian slate. 100% Riesling from vines over 60 years old on average. Cool fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tanks and Fuder barrels, half fermented with natural yeasts, half with cultured yeasts.
Sweet lemon, florals, tight and juicy crunch, a slight Disprin flavour (which I like), precise and poised, steely and sweet, with an almost spicy finish of good length. Light, energetic and excellent. Feels like it will push ahead with a little more time in bottle. Tasted: August 2021; Alcohol: 8%; Price: $44; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2021 - 2031+; Rated: 93+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
Simultaneously juicy, very lively and elegant. Spot-on balance and brimming with white-fruit and lemon (fruit and blossom) aromas. Very clean and straight finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap. Rating: 93 Points; James Suckling .com
Entices the nose with a cool fragrance of green fruit and just a hint of apple blossom. On the palate it’s one of the freshest Kabinett's you are likely to come across, as crisp fruit and animating acidity are supported by sherbety zest, residual sugar merely teasing the taste buds. Jancis Robinson.com
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