Dominique Piron’s family history in Beaujolais spans more than four centuries, with his oldest known ancestor born in Morgon in 1590. Since then, there have been 14 generations of winegrowers in the family. Dominique seeks to create characterful terroir wines that are fruity, subtle and elegant from his sloping vineyards of fragmented granite and schist. These are wines that showed us what we’d long been looking for from Beaujolais but had almost given up hope of finding.
Standing on the top of the blue schist terroir that is Morgon Côte du Py on a wonderfully sunny but utterly freezing morning is something that will live long in the memory. Côte du Py has upwards of 100 growers sharing it.
Morgon usually gives wines of depth and structure, with something of a Barolo intensity at whiles, not least from the famous Cote du Py. Dark cherry, baking spice, almost a liquorice richness here, floral and sooty too. Rich and well appointed, distinct 'mineral' feel, all crushed granite and flat soda water kind of thing, floral mouth perfume, depth with clarity, powerful finish, leaning towards raspberry and a slick of earthy tannin and fragrance to close. Yes. Tasted: Jan 2020; Alc: 13.5%; Price: $46; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2021-2030; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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