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Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.

This is markedly more restrained with its reluctant but distinctly floral aromas of brooding dark berry fruit, earth, sauvage and hints of dried herbal tea. There is excellent volume, concentration and imposing power to the big-bodied flavors that deliver plenty of minerality and outstanding persistence on the robust and austere but balanced finish. This classically proportioned Clos de la Roche is indisputably going to require extended keeping. Score: 94 Points; Tasted: Jan 2017; Drink: 2031+; Issue: 65; Allen Meadows - Burghound


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