Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
This is one of the few wines in the range to display any appreciable reduction but even so, it seems apparent that the underlying fruit is ripe. More interesting today are the exceptionally fresh large-scaled flavors that possess a suave mid-palate texture while displaying outstanding depth on the sneaky long and very firm finale. Date: Jan 2021; Drink: 2038; Issue: 81; Rating 95 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is also a very charming wine, though it will demand a bit more patience than the Clos Saint-Denis for all that. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, warm spices, orange rind, woodsmoke and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, layered and muscular, with lively acids, serious concentration and rich, powdery structuring tannins. Date: Jan 2022; Drink: 2029-2065; Rating: 96+ Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
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