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The vast resources of Moet et Chandon mean that every vintage of Dom is almost eerily perfect (the vagaries of cork permitting). The supreme elegance and grace of Dom is immediately apparent on the bouquet, and the citrus, pear and apple palate, with its superfine acidity, seems to last for an eternity. 98 points & Halliday’s Top 100 – The Weekend Australian November 19-20, 2005 Quite unlike the relatively tight, austere 1996 (which should probably be kept and drunk after the 1998), this cuvée is extraordinarily open and ripe already – it hits the palate with such force it is easy to confuse its ripeness with sweetness but then, in Dom P style, it tightens up immensely and finished with great race and refreshing dryness. The nose initially suggests something headily fragrant – lilies perhaps – but then develops in the glassy to be much meatier and denser. But it took a glass 24 hours to develop the tight-knit, bready autolysis that is characteristic of most Dom Pérignon vintages, which suggests to me that this wine, while being super-welcoming, will also have a very long life ahead of it.
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