Dujac Morey St Denis 2013
Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
An ultra-fresh and airy nose reveals notes of tea, white flowers, red currant and earth. There is good detail and punch to the vibrant and saline-inflected medium weight flavors that culminate in a complex, mouth coating and mildly austere, rustic and linear finish. Score: 88 Points; Tasted: Jan 2016; Drink: 2020+; Issue: 61; Allen Meadows - Burghound
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