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Guill de Pury and daughter Sandra, with Guills wife Katherine in the background, make wines for the new millennium from the low-yielding vines re-established in the heart of what was one of the most famous (and infinitely larger) vineyards of the 19th century. In the riper years, the red wines have a velvety generosity of flavour rarely encountered, while never losing varietal character; the long-lived Marsanne Roussanne takes students of history back to Yeringbergs fame in the 19th century. James Halliday.

Bright and energetic, laden with red berries, violets, spiced cherries and musky, plummy depth, the complex nose opens up to reveal savoury cedar and salumi elements, with hints of liquorice. Powerful and elegant on the palate, this is classic Yarra Valley Pinot. It’s fleshy, round and with a gently sappy twist, the super fine tannins frame a wine of real length. With time in the glass, and despite the apparent contradiction, the wine builds in volume and intensity while also looking both fresher and livelier. A lovely wine now, this will cellar beautifully for many years. – Sandra de Pury


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