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An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

The Shiraz wines from Wendouree don’t appeal to me as much as the Cabernets and Malbec, but I’d have to concede that this straight Shiraz in 2015 is absolutely smoking. Red fruits and roses, foresty perfume, a little hazelnut and cedar, even a touch of liquorice. Medium bodied, very fine and clean, but so concentrated and deep, with a mass of fine silty tannin, pure acidity, and incredible length. Laser-like focus here, with no lack of finesse. Great wine. Tasted: Aug 17; Alcohol: 14.3%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2045; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front



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