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Seppelt has pioneered Great Western sparkling shiraz since the 1890s and I have been privileged to witness the stamina of great bottles from the 1950s and 1960s. Grand longevity is the key to this style, and even on release at a decade of age (eight years of which were spent on lees) the fruit of the Seppelt Great Western vineyard itself demands a long time yet to fully blossom. 

Enticingly poised, effortless, medium-bodied black cherry liqueur, black plum and blackberry fruit are here aplenty, framed in high cocoa dark chocolate, but the real distinction of this cuvée lies in its impeccably mineral, powder-fine tannins. Such enduring structure would crush the spirit of any mere mortal cuvée, but here it is neither confronting nor dominating propelling a thrilling finish that reverberates long with cherry liqueur and dark chocolate. After more than 120 years, this remains the pinnacle of Australian sparkling, and it will outlive all others. Drink by: 2047; Price: $100.00; Date Tasted: Apr 2017; Alcohol: 13%; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star & Sparkling Wine of the Year; Tyson Stelzer; James Halliday Wine Companion

Eight years on lees. The most prestigious sparkling red in the world. Traditionally released as a ten year old. One of the softest wines you will ever encounter. And yet rich. And yet undergrowthy, into leather. It flows with plum, redcurrant and black cherry, menthol and sweet, polished cedarwood humming in the background. It’s pristine and yet it’s complex; it’s seductively fruited and yet secondary characters lap at the edges. It’s ready to drink now and yet it has much time, and expansion, still tucked up its sleeve. Tasted : Marl17; Alcohol : 13%; Price : $100; Closure : Crownseal; Drink : 2017 - 2027+; Rated : 95+ Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front

A whole berry ferment precedes 12 months maturation in a large, old French vat, and eight years on lees before disgorgement. Winemaker Adam Carnaby has threaded the needle with precisely the right amount of dosage, making a unique and great Australian red wine. Price: $100.00; Date Tasted: Sept 2017; Alcohol: 13%; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; Top 100 Wines of the Year 2017; James Halliday; James Halliday Wine Companion

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