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Mount Mary is one of the great small wineries of Australia, established by Dr John Middleton in 1972. Production is tiny. Mount Mary is noted for both the character and high quality of its wines. Since the first vintage in 1976, it has established itself as one of Australia's most highly regarded producers, commanding a mythical status among wine collectors. The vineyard faces due north and captures optimum sunlight during the growing season. The purity of fruit, poise and structure of Quintet, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend, epitomises the estate. It resonates with individuality of place and Dr John’s fastidious respect for the landscape. Mount Mary has continued to take great steps forward while staying true to the vision of Dr John, whose son David oversees the business while grandson Sam Middleton has taken on the winemaking mantle with aplomb.

Deep colour by any pinot standards, especially those of Mount Mary. Shows the small berry, small bunch genesis of this low-yielding year; plum leads, with black cherry close behind, the balance and length nigh-on perfect. If ever a Mount Mary Pinot was built for the cellar, this is it. Drink By: 2029; Price: $130.00; Alcohol: 12.8%; Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday; Wine Companion

This 2014 edition is sealed under cork and so Sam Middleton of Mount Mary sent two bottles in for sampling. Neither were corked but both were consumed to the very last drop, an almost unheard-of scenario in the wine journo’s life. But it says a lot of both the wine’s charm and drinkability. It’s 12.8% alcohol and yet it has excellent colour and quite a lot of fruit/flavour depth. That’s just one aspect of its magnetism. The flavours have that water-based feel; there’s nothing oily or alcohol-dissolved in the way the flavours juice through the mouth, the wine’s notes of cranberry and tangerine as important as the mainstay of ripe plum and black cherry. It’s complex too, with these twigs and those herbs, complemented by a firm mesh of dry, fine-grained tannin. A beautiful pinot noir, it most certainly is. Drink : 2019 - 2026+; Rated : 95 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front


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