Jean Marc Burgaud works in Cote du Py and surrounding parcels in Morgon. Crowned by Robert Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide as one of only eight five-star estates in Beaujolais, he is going from strength to strength and his response to critical acclaim and consumer adulation has been to work even harder. The importer Neville Yates reports that he was in the cellars tasting back to his first vintage, 1992, when his English importer urged Jean-Marc to take advantage of the super-ripe 2009 vintage and put up his prices to something that might enable him to eke out a more comfortable living. Jean-Marc was reluctant but eventually caved: he jacked the prices up about 20c a bottle!
The 2013 Morgon Les Charmes comes from vines that were planted in the 1930s and this vintage spent 6 months in vat. It has a pretty nose of raspberry coulis, crushed strawberry and brambly scents that are neatly defined. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, slightly brittle tannin and, like the Régnié, there is a citric seam that runs from start to finish. Good structure on the finish with a black olive and spicy aftertaste, this is a fine Morgon that will repay cellaring.
Jean-Marc Burgaud had his arm bandaged up when I visited him this year. I enquired about this injury and he told me that he fell off the back of the tractor in the vineyard. Winemaking – it can be a dangerous business. “The 2014 vintage was very nice vintage,” he explained. “July was not perfect and it was a little rainy in August, but September was better. The wines are fruitier than 2013, and I think it will drink earlier. I’m using larger barrels now [up to 500-liters] as I find that in some Beaujolais the oak is too strong.” Jean-Marc creates some of the best Beaujolais wines that you can buy. His 2013 Morgon Côte du Py Cuvée James is one of the standout wines of the vintage: tensile, fresh, full of nervosité and joie-de-vivre and strongly recommended. Rating: 91 Points; Drink: 2016-2028; Date: Jun 2015; Neal Martin - eRobertParker.com #219