Philipp Wittmann has become a legend in his own lifetime,” wrote Anne Krebiehl MW in her 2019 book, The Wines of Germany. “His Rieslings have an alluring saltiness that draws you in, as well as purity and an inherent coolness. He is amongst Germany's best.” Philipp’s ancestors have been winegrowers in the old market town of Westhofen since the mid-1600s. His father Günter put the estate on an organic footing, and it’s been a member of organic farmers' association Naturland since 1990. Philipp then took the step to go biodynamic in 2004.
Aulerde is Wittmann's warmest site. Westhofen's southern to southeastern vineyard slopes rise from the glacial valley of the Rhine to the rim of a high plateau. The Aulerde vineyard lies at the foot of the protective eastern and southeastern slopes of the Kirchspiel site. The vines here face slightly south. The upper layers of a small portion of Aulerde are heavy clayish marl with only a very small amount of limestone. Wittmann's Riesling grows where the subsoil contains clayey or gravelly sand.
Very intense, lemony notes here with dried honeysuckle, apple curd, bright quince and spearmint. There’s a layered, compressed quality to the center palate, despite the impressive power here, and the acidity drives long and pure. Ripe but well-defined on the finish. Drink now. Date Tasted: Dec 2019; Rating: 96 Points; Nick Stock; JamesSuckling.com
A generous fruity fragrance exhibits aromas of ripe apple, peach and pear. The palate adds zesty touches of lime and orange to the sweet and juicy local fruit. Healthy acidity, a salty mineral tang and a subtle phenolic piquancy add contours to the finish. Date Tasted: Aug 2019; Rating 17.5/20; Michael Schmidt; jancisrobinson.com
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