An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.
Scents of dried berries, a fainter side of raspberry, cranberry and strawberry, let’s say, plus a violet floral lift. Alongside, whiffs of fennel, pepper, light eucalyptus, brambles and gun smoke. Nice start, if not a bit shy. The palate is quite rigid and does pinch a bit as it closes. You’ll see now some more of that light, mixed red berry flavour, a savoury, clean earthy edge, licks of mint, a rugged pulverised granite/slate sort of character too, which is a good bit in the wine. The thin finish goes streaky and puckering, sort of undoing a little here. That being said, you can still see character, pedigree and cellaring capability. Tasted: July 19; Alcohol: 13.2%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2045; Rated: 90 Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front
|Unit Of Measure||ea|