An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

This vintage is acid over tannin, in terms of structure and while it smells good, the finish has a distinct under-ripe blackberry tartness through it. Black plum, blackberry, hedgerow, some chocolate and very slight smokiness. A good, but light and intense small berry and blackberry flavour, sheets of glassy acidity, some hardness to tannin, and that finish that’s just too hardcore for the wine as at now. It will be interesting to observe this wine’s progress over the years. Tasted: July 19; Alcohol: 13%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2022-2030+; Rated: 90+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front