Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe is the family’s cradle and heart, but also the standard-bearer and flagship of Les Vignobles Brunier. Situated since its origin on Plateau de La Crau, in the southeast of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, the estate has grown, developed and matured on this vast stony terrace which, generation after generation, has imparted all of its character. Of the 173 acres that form the domaine today, 65 are dedicated to red Châteauneuf-du-Pape and five to white.

Vieux Telegraphe’s second-label Châteauneuf-duPape red, made with the grapes of young vines under 30 years old, plus older parcels not located on the Plateaux of La Crau or Piedlong.

Moving to the 2019s, these unquestionably have another level of concentration and depth over the 2018s. Starting with the 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Télégramme, this deep purplehued beauty boasts a great nose of both black and blue fruits, peppery herbs, and crushed stone to go with a medium to fullbodied, meaty, mouthfilling style on the palate. It’s one of the more structured vintages for this cuvée that I can recall, and it also might just be one of the best yet. Rating: 91-93 Points; Jeb Dunnuck

Deep violet. Ripe, spice-accented dark berry and cherry preserve scents show strong garrigue and floral accents. Pliant in texture and broad in the mouth, offering sappy boysenberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors and a peppery topnote. Finishes long and gently chewy, with the f loral and spice notes repeating. Date: Sept 2021; Drink: 2026-2036; Rating: 93 Points; Josh Raynolds; Vinous

Very ripe damson plum, but not a jot overripe on the finely nuanced nose. This powerful Chateauneuf has an excellent balance of generous, fine tannins and richness, the lively acidity lifting the long savory finish beautifully. Drink or hold. Date: April 2022; Rating: 94 Points; James Suckling

Full-bodied, rich and highly textural, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme is atypically concentrated and dense, reflecting the addition of more old-vine Grenache to the cuvée. Black cherries, salted licorice and dark chocolate all make appearances, and the wine finishes long and velvety. Date: May 2022; Drink: 2021 – 2035; Rating: 92 Points; Joe Czerwinski; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate