Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe is the family’s cradle and heart, but also the standard-bearer and flagship of Les Vignobles Brunier. Situated since its origin on Plateau de La Crau, in the southeast of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, the estate has grown, developed and matured on this vast stony terrace which, generation after generation, has imparted all of its character. Of the 173 acres that form the domaine today, 65 are dedicated to red Châteauneuf-du-Pape and five to white.
Grapes are hand-picked, with double sorting at the vine, followed by a third sorting at the winery. Gentle crushing and selective destemming, followed by 25-40 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation.
Forward and up-front, especially by this cuvee-s standards, the 2011 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf (65% Grenache from 70-year-old vines, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the balance other permitted varieties) exhibits perfumed aromas of herbs de Provence, seaweed wrapper, garrigue and olive to go with plenty of sweet kirsch and berry fruit. Medium-bodied, fresh and elegant, with fine tannin, it can be consumed now (with a decant) or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2025. Rating: 92 Points; Jeb Dunnuck; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate #209
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