Established in 1860 Tahbilk is one of Australia’s most beautiful & historic wineries, located in the Nagambie Lakes region of Central Victoria and one of the nation’s premium viticultural areas. The vineyard comprises 200 hectares of vines including whites of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne; the reds – Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre as well as the traditional varieties. Tahbilk is further blessed with an abundance of “old vine” plantings including Shiraz from 1860, Cabernet Sauvignon back to 1949 and Marsanne from 1927. Tahbilk is the first Australian winery to be carboNZero certified at both an organisation and product level and one of only eight wineries in the world.
Tahbilk Marsanne is the standard, the benchmark by which I judge all others. It is resolute and timeless in style, a classic. The 2019 vintage is strong, a brighter presence in the glass than the 2018, with a delicacy that sometimes reminds me of Riesling. Signature honeysuckle, jasmine aromas – aromatic and lifted – with lemon blossom. The palate is generous with grapefruit pith, fruit peel, lemon and an almond mealy-ness. The grape is not naturally blessed with high acidity and so it’s picked early (alcohol is 12%) and it is that early-picked lemony acidity that is going to hold this wine on its journey. Did I mention that Marsanne also ages a treat? Drink: 2020-2028; Rated: 95 Points; Jeni Port
Tahbilk knows marsanne like the back of its hand, having long established the varietal-site bond. This is akin to a 1yo semillon, but with a greater span of aromas and flavours. Honeysuckle and straw on the bouquet, then pear and Granny Smith flavours bound by citrussy acidity. Alcohol: 12%; Price: $19.00; Drink By: 2039; Rating: 93 Points & Top 100 Wines of 2018; James Halliday
Should be on the wine equivalent of honour roll in Australia. Meanwhile, this is great to drink. Expected lean, racy style, just a little extra pool of lime-on-green-apple to finish taking the texture of the narrow train tracks, a come-hither mouth-watering close to a lean, racy, refreshing drink. You can feel the tension, the quiet sizzle of acidity and minerally things, a touch of green mango in 2019 – it’s not all that complex yet but it is all up so refreshing and delicious. Some for the cellar, some for the yacht. Drink 2019-2030+; Price : $19.00; Rated: 92+ Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front
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