It’s grown on a specific patch of east-facing vineyard, 50 metres higher than the remaining chardonnay vines. The soils are lean. The crop is not thinned, but manages only 1 tonne per acre. It’s treated very carefully – no enzymes, no acid addition, mostly wild yeast (but some cultured), no crushing. Juice is left to settle for seven days prior to fermentation. It spends time in wood but spends winter in tank. It’s bottled unfined and unfiltered.
As well as the grapes were treated in the winery – the bigger treat is the taste of it from the glass. This is a pearl of a wine. Seductive yet elegant, immediately appealing yet complex and sophisticated. As good as winemaker Franco D’Anna is, this is clearly a remarkable site. Pear, grapefruit, citrus, woodsmoke, apple and cedar-spice. Integrated funk, but you have to go looking for it. Persistent. And apart from anything else, charming to drink. Rating: 95 Points; Campbell Mattinson
Bright straw-green; has the finesse and intensity typical of Hoddles Creek Estate chardonnays, with white flesh stone fruit built on a platform of minerally acidity. The wine has almost entirely absorbed the new and used French oak in which it was fermented. Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday
Intensity, focus, texture and extension mark it as a truly special wine. Grapefruit, honeysuckle and apple with a little nougat, almond meal and a mere hint of sour lime. It’s layered but a decidedly mineral spine maintains its form, driving through the palate with penetration and emphatic, spicy length. Should cellar brilliantly. 95+ Excellent – Exceptional; Jeremy Pringle
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