Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes is also performing very well, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, cassis and sweet soil tones, complemented by hints of warm spices and violets. Medium to full-bodied, lively and elegant, it's seamless and enveloping, concluding with youthfully chalky grip on the finish. Date: Jan 2021; Drink: 2025-2050; Rating: 93 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
An admirably discreet application of wood frames the very pretty and equally perfumed nose that flashes ripe notes of cassis, red currant and an impressive range of spice and floral elements. The medium weight flavors are not especially dense though the mid-palate texture is refined and lilting, all wrapped in a dusty, youthfully austere and complex finish. I like the sense of energy and while firm, this is not so structured as to be unapproachable after only 5-ish or so years. With that said, it's built to reward 12+. Tasted: Jan 2021; Drink: 2030+; Issue: 81; Comments: Outstanding; Rating: 93 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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