Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
An exceptionally pretty and, similar to the Malconsorts, somewhat sweet nose combines notes of lavender, rose petal, violet, red currant and a whiff of orange pekoe tea. There is good if not special mid-palate density to the overtly intense flavors that terminate in a dusty, austere and reasonably powerful finish where the tannins are a bit spiky. My sense is though that with a few years of age they will round off and render the finish more harmonious. Tasted: Jan 20; Drink: 2029+; Issue: 77; Rating 92 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
Unwinding in the glass with notes of cassis, wild plums and red berries that are complemented by nuances of peonies, heather and dark chocolate, Dujac's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is full-bodied, deep and incisive, its tight-knit core structured around fine but chalky tannins and tangy acids. Firm and introverted, as is so often the case, it has superb potential and will reward the patient, but readers considering purchasing this serious Bonnes-Mares should count on exercising over a decade's patience before opening bottles. Tasted: Jan 20; Drink: 2030-2065; Rating: 95+ Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate
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