Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.
This precipitously steep and rocky vineyard, Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields some of the most elegant and sophisticated white wines in the world. Concentrated yet light-footed. The classic blue slate soil gives the wine a delicate, crisp acidity that perfectly balances the pure peach and lemon fruit. "Succulent and straight, this is a beautiful Spätlese with an incredibly fresh finish. Drink or hold. Rating: 94 Points; Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling .com
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