Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.
Super fresh, flinty and fine aromas of lemon and grapefruit on offer, as well as wildflowers and stones. The palate has a smoothly resolved texture with supple, lemon and yellow-peach flavors. Long and even-handed finish. Great depth here. Drink or hold. Date Tasted: Sept 2019; Rating: 95 Points; Nick Stock; JamesSuckling.com
In a fascinating fragrance the Sonnenuhr captures the essence of summer with meadow flowers, cornfields and ripe yellow fruit. On the palate ripe peaches and nectarines are served on a rich texture without exaggerated opulence. Delicate nuances of sweet spice and stony minerality add finesse and there is also enough acidity to give this Grosses Gewächs the classic Mosel vibrancy. Dates Tasted: Aug 2019; Rating: 18/20; Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com
Riesling from vines of more than 100 years of age. Grosses Gewächs. Bless you. Chamomile, fresh peach, ripe lemon, some spice, and is that a whiff of aniseed in the background? Flavours are set out so neatly, smooth and even ripeness, cool acidity, distinctly slaty texture, pulling a little more savoury on the long finish. How’s the purity? Tasted: Feb 2020; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $74; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2020-2030+; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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