Hamish and Kate Laurie continue a five generation winemaking tradition. Devoted to the high altitude sites of the Adelaide Hills and with Kate’s French oenology training the wines they produce are at once traditional and contemporary. With a fiery passion to create premium bottle fermented and aged sparkling together with aromatic whites that can genuinely cellar, their signature style is focussed, textural, restrained and balanced. At Deviation Road every sip reveals a little of this mystery; a taste of the terroir, a glimpse at the season, a hint of the science and a wink to the heritage that crafts its existence.
Just when I was becoming a tad disillusioned with Adelaide Hills pinot, along comes this. Yes, there's plenty of sap and crunch across red fruit allusions all, yet the pose is one of restraint. Nothing overt; no regional sarsaparilla. Most striking is the extraction regime. Svelte and balletic, even. Diaphanous and expansive, the tannins are real. Tactile. Moreish. What I want! A melody of clonal fruit received a 4-day cold soak before a natural fermentation and 18-23 days on skins, before 10 months in a French oak cave. Others take note. Drink by: 2026; Price: $45.00; Date Tasted: Dec 2018; Alcohol: 13%; Rating: 96 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion
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