Michel Colin was the third generation in his family to grow grapes in Burgund’s prestigious Côte de Beaune. When he retired in 2003, he handed the property over to his sons, Philippe and Bruno, who split the holdings between them to bottle under separate labels. With the help of his wife, Stéphanie, Bruno farms eight hectares of land, in thirty different parcels scattered over five communes, with sometimes as little as just a few rows per parcel. To farm under these circumstances is quintessentially Burgundian, where the old Napoleonic codes of inheritance (evolved from Roman law) divide property equally among offspring. Parcels farmed by any one family continue to get smaller and smaller as they are distributed among relatives.
A cooler and much more elegant nose flashes admirable purity to the green apple, white flower and citrus peel scents. There is terrific intensity to the much more mineral-driven medium weight flavors that, not surprisingly, are considerably more refined before concluding in a balanced and sneaky long finish. This needs to develop a bit more depth but the underlying material is present such that more complexity should progressively emerge. Tasted: Jun 19; Drink: 2027+; Issue: 75; Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding; Rating 93 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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