This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
A gentle touch of wood sets off attractive, even perfumed scents of violets, cassis and plum. By contrast the rich, intense and relatively large-scaled flavors are distinctly earthy though there is plenty of the hallmark minerality on the extract-rich and powerful finish that is also moderately austere though not rustic. This is quite good and clearly built to age. Tasted: April 2018; Drink: 2026+; Issue: 70; Comments: Outstanding; Rating 91 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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