This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
There is a whiff of reduction that is enough to push the underlying fruit to the background but not the floral and earth nuances. The vibrant, well-detailed and tautly muscular flavors display a refreshing salinity on the equally youthfully austere and moderately firm finale. I very much like the sense of inner mouth perfume that adds to the overall appeal. Note that at least some patience will be necessary. Tasted: April 19; Drink: 2027+; Issue: 74; Rating 90-93 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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