This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
Here the impressively pure nose speaks of extract of red currant together with notes of earth, spice and plum. On the palate this is lacier and more refined than the Pitures with intensely mineral-driven flavors along with the hallmark sleek muscularity one expects to find in a textbook Champans. In short, this is impressive but very serious and patience will absolutely be necessary. Tasted: April 2018; Drink: 2028+; Issue: 70; Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding; Rating 92 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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