This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
Here the nose is dominated by post-bottling sulfur though it shouldn't last for long. Otherwise there is very good tension and verve to the slightly better detailed if less concentrated flavors that possess a finer mouthfeel on the cleaner and drier finish that isn't quite as complex. This too should drink well young though I would be inclined to hold it for a few years in the hopes that more depth will develop. Tasted: Jun 2020; Drink: 2023+; Issue: 79; Rating: 88 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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