This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
There is a whiff of the exotic on the white and yellow peach, citrus and floral-inflected aromas. The texture of the medium-bodied flavors is at once rich but sleek with excellent minerality on the impressively persistent finale. I quite like this, and it should amply repay extended keeping. Tasted: Jun 2021; Drink: 2027+; Issue: 83; Comments: Outstanding; Rating 92 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound
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