The Perego family have been tending vines on these sheer granite terraces in the mountainous Valtellina since 1860. The vines are so far north into the alps they are practically in Switzerland. They work only with Nebbiolo, or Chiavennasca as it is called in these parts, growing the grapes up to 700 metres above sea level on sheer, south-facing, sunlit vines that dig straight into rock. The resulting fruit is intensely mineral.
Light to medium-bodied, fennel, almond, oranges and mountain herbs, some spice, strawberry and fresh raspberry, with a fine drag of dry and dusty tannin and firm tangy acidity. Such vitality and freshness, plus taste. Finish is precise. 90 days on skins, and a bottle that had been opened for two days had put on weight and showed rounder tannin and richer flavour. Top shelf. Tasted: May 18; Alcohol: 56%; Price: $56; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2019-2035; Rated: 93+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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