The Perego family have been tending vines on these sheer granite terraces in the mountainous Valtellina since 1860. The vines are so far north into the alps they are practically in Switzerland. They work only with Nebbiolo, or Chiavennasca as it is called in these parts, growing the grapes up to 700 metres above sea level on sheer, south-facing, sunlit vines that dig straight into rock. The resulting fruit is intensely mineral.
The Inferno Fiamme Antiche is a very prestigious wine that comes from vines that are over 50 years of age, situated at 450 meters above sea level and which have their roots in soils mainly composed of granitic rock flaked. Valtellina is in the heart of Inferno, a truly remarkable terroir for this fantastic example of mountainous Nebbiolo.
The winemaker at Ar.Pe.Pe, Emanuele Pelizzatti Perego (or Manu, for short), is a top shelf bloke....and makes wine like an angel. Thyme, flowering herbs, cherry, blackcurrant. Medium-bodied, layers of flavour, amaro herbs, redcurrant and blackcurrant, clarity of acidity and ‘mineral’ feel, dusty fine tannin of persistence, liquorice root wafting so seductively, so long and complete. Far out. What a wine. I’ve written 95-96 in my notes, but given my own enthusiasm here…Tasted: May18; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $88; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2021 - 2041; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front
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