William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2011
One of the greatest domaines in Chablis founded by William Fevre in 1957 and its vineyard holdings include 12 hectares of premier cru and 16 hectares of grand Cru vines. The domaines fruit is harvested by hand, a rarity in Chablis, and rigorously sorted at the winery to ensure the highest quality. In recent times the amount of new oak used has been cut back and today the average age of the barrels in the cellar is five years. From the Petit Chablis to the domaines six Grand Cru wines, the quality is superb and the range from Domaine William Fevre is a benchmark for the wines of the region.
Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2011 as a "vintage where it was necessary to pick relatively early, at least if you wanted to preserve the acidity. We were one of the first domaines to begin and we started on August 31st and while you're never entirely sure at the time you make the decision, in retrospect I am very happy we chose to start early. It's almost difficult to believe but even August 31st was 104 days after the flowering and given that 100 is the rule of thumb, we still had plenty of ripening time because the growing season started so early. We had reasonably good potential alcohols at between 11 and 12.2% but more importantly, excellent phenolic maturity and between 5 to 6 grams of acidity. The crop was mostly quite clean and on the left bank we had normal yields but on the right bank they were a bit lower than normal, partially because of early season hail in certain sectors and also because the berries were quite small. I like the 2011 vintage a lot and while it's not as classic in style as 2010 or 2008, the wines are still very Chablis in character and that is what is important." I have mentioned this before but it bears repeating so readers will not be surprised: for several years now Fèvre has elected to bottle its entire range, including the grands crus, under the Diam cork
This also displays an abundance of classic Chablis character with iodine, tidal pool and ripe green fruit aromas that precede dense, muscular and overtly powerful flavors that culminate in a saline infused and impressively persistent finish where a touch of wood surfaces. As Bougros typically is, this is a big wine with almost painful intensity. While this slightly smoky effort isn't particularly refined, it is certainly dramatic and imposing. Don’t miss! (92-94)/2018+ Allen Meadows; Burghound
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