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The Alsace family of Trimbach has a wine-making history stretching back almost 4 centuries, the firm having come into existence in 1626.It was not until the late 19th century, however, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, that the business began to really expand. Success came when he exhibited the wines at an international fair in Brussels in 1898, to much acclaim. Since the days of Frédéric-Emile the house of Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauvillé, for much of this time with brothers Bernard and Hubert at the helm although today it is their sons, Jean and Pierre, that are in charge. Pierre busies himself with true work of a viticulteur, looking after the vines and running the harvest, whereas Jean has his hand on marketing and publicity.

The Trimbach family currently own vineyards scattered across three villages, with an emphasis on planting Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, and the style associated with the house is one of dry structure, flavoursome with firm acidity where appropriate, and - in the table wines at least - never an ounce of detectable residual sugar despite the ripeness of the fruit.

This Riesling is a great classic of Alsace. At once delicate and vital, its intense fruit is given great length by a backcome of crisp acidity producing some of the world's greatest and longest tasting wines. Alsatian Riesling are usually dry, in order to match with food.

While New World Riesling has become ultra-fashionable, here is the original version from a French outfit that has been making serious (and sometimes seriously expensive) wines in Alsace since, so it says, 1626. Great individuality and a dry, clean, mineral purity from this "entry-level" bottle, with full-on flavours of lemons, quince and grapefruit. Will work with lightly Asian-spiced dishes, smoked fish or a lemon-roasted chicken. The Independent UK


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