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Jean-Marc Roulot noted that 2006 was "not an easy vintage. I was basically worried from the beginning of the growing season and while there were good periods, August was really ugly and the ban de vendange (officially mandated harvest date) was declared much too late. The alternating extremes of weather and temperature had made the grapes extremely fragile and you essentially had a very, very short window to get things exactly right. Moreover, by after the 10th of September, the maturities were rising at an astonishing rate, which of course only added pressure to get organized and get picking! Along with Dominique Lafon and Arnaud Ente, I petitioned to begin picking early, which was granted and so we began harvesting on the 14th. Sugar and ripeness levels were strong as was concentration and thus I did almost no lees stirring for fear of creating unduly heavy wines, which I abhor. The '06s are relatively open and accessible and they remind more than a little of the 2000's." Roulot has done a lot of thinking about the premature oxidation issue and while he, like most of his colleagues, certainly has his theories, until proved otherwise he views it as prudent to take what precautions he can. To this end, he has gone to an almost 100% coating of paraffin and has raised his free SO2 target to between 30 and 35 ppm.

A very bright and clean nose that is ripe but well short of exotic leads to crisp and nicely plump middle weight flavors that possess fine energy if not excellent depth, all wrapped in a solidly long finish. There is a touch of sulfur on the finish as well but this should be absorbed quickly. Tasted: Jul 01, 2008 Score: 85 Drink: now+ Issue 31 Allen Meadows; Burghound

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