Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru 2013
Bernard Raveneau was clearly in better spirits about the 2014 vintage relative to 2013 that he described to me last year as "one that I would like to forget as quickly as possible. By contrast 2014 produced much more interesting, not to mention much more typical, wines. The early part of the growing season through June was very hot with temperatures that were in the 35 to 40° C range and this created problems for the flowering as there was a lot of shatter. Then conditions changed as July and the first half of August were warm and wet as there was plenty of rain. But happily the second half of August and all of September were clement with warm days, cool nights and virtually no rain. We chose to begin picking on the 17th of September and brought in beautifully clean fruit that possessed good if not genuinely high ripeness levels as potential alcohols averaged right around 12.5%. Yields were average at 45 hl/ha though I frankly expected a bit more but as it turned out there was less juice in the berries than we predicted. The good weather and relatively warm conditions fostered an early end to the malos as they were finished by Christmas. As to the style I would compare 2014 to either 1995 or 2010." Note: the Raveneau 2013s, revisited below, were mostly bottled in April 2015.
Along with the Blanchots this is the most floral wine in the range with its elegant nose of pear, apple, spice and soft apricot nuances that exhibit just enough Chablis typicity to be persuasive. There is a lovely sense of vibrancy to the delicious and very rounded medium-bodied flavors that possess fine depth and excellent length on the mouth coating and powerful finish. While not quite at its usual level this is certainly a fine effort in the context of the vintage. Score: 92 Points; Tasted: Oct 2015; Drink: 2020+; Issue: 60; Allen Meadows - Burghound
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