It has taken until March but we have our first nomination for wine of the year. It is no irony that the previous vintage was last year's first nomination and subsequently our runner up in 2007. I did not think it was possible but the Voyager Estate Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2004 has not only lifted the bar once again but it demands now to be mentioned in the same breath as the illustrious pair of Moss Wood and Cullen - never mind the fact that it is still half the price of those other two giants of Australian Cabernet. This is what I wrote one year ago upon release of the previous vintage 2003
 
What a beauty! Is there no end to how high Cliff Royle and his team can raise the bar? Being the good budding journo that I am, I went back to copies of The WineStar Journal from 5 years ago when I wrote that Voyager Estate Cabernet was on the same tier of quality as Cullen and Moss Wood yet at a fraction of the price. I have seen nothing over the last 5 years to change my mind. In fact having seen the 2003 Cabernet Merlot on 3 occasions now I contemplated a very scary thought indeed - I couldn't help but think the wines are getting even better. That is an amazing thought really given how good these wines have been but following the pearler of a 2002 they pulled out last year (from a below par vintage, mind you) and now this effort, this is truly a winery at the top of its game. It is not just the Cabernet Merlot that excites; as a complete package across the entire range of reds and white Voyager Estate would be the regions number one. We'll worry about the other wines in the coming weeks but this is the 'must-have' and our first nomination for wine of the year - yes, it is that good.
 
Winemaker Cliff Royle has been pumping up the 2004 for the last 12 months before its release. Twice (in The Wine Front and on StarForum) has he stipulated without fear or favour that the "2004 Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot is the best red wine made at this estate". In context it is a massive statement when one considers the last six vintages have each made the shortlist for this columns best wine of the year. Having looked at the wine only days ago, for the first time, it is hard to argue with his impression. This despite the fact that the most recent vintage was one of the most acclaimed Australian wines in recent memory (96/100 - Jeremy Oliver; 96/100 - Gary Walsh; 95/100 - James Halliday; 5 Stars - Decanter; 95/100 - Tim White; Outstanding - Winewise). I am tipping the 2004 will at the very least match these ratings.
 
The Voyager Estate Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2004 is simply a wine of gigantic proportions. Already four years of age, the colour offers nothing to counter an argument that it had just been picked. The nose shows layer upon layer of beautiful dark berry fruit, cassis, cigar box, mint slice and capsicum. The dark berries continue in the mouth, the keynote here is the acidity and uncompromising length. Despite the depth and darkness of the fruit, the wine has the most wonderful ripe tannins which come to the fore encapsulating the savoury notes. After seeing many vintages of this wine it is a house if not regional characteristic. The more it warms and finds some air, the more it shows. Despite being an absolute pup it has quality written all over it – even on a world scale it is ridiculous to imagine just how good this wine will be. I rarely endeavour deep into drinking windows but it is hard to see this not lasting through to 2020 and beyond. It is harder still to see many waiting until 2010 as my suggested drinking window begins. It has been some time since I ventured into 'Perfect' territory in rating a wine on our rating system but let’s be conservative and call this 'Exceptional' for now. Even those not in the $45 Cabernet market (this wine now retails at $60) should consider this. To borrow my own year-old quote - "yes, it is that good". Drink: 2010-2020; Quality: Exceptional; BW; WineStar© March 2008
 
I only wish that every year were like the 2004 vintage. People sometimes ask me “What makes Margaret River such a great wine region?” The answer is the consistency from one year to the other. We have had the most amazing run of vintages. Margaret River has become the envy of all other Australian wine regions. The 2004 vintage in Margaret River will be regarded as outstanding. White wines have all the freshness and varietal character we could hope for. Reds have fresh fruit with depth and ripe tannins.
 
The warmth that arrived around Easter quickly ripened the reds, which resulted in intense colour, flavour and aromas. Wonderful tannins and lovely aromatics are the hallmark of this vintage. I believe the Cab blends to have slightly more fruit power than the wines from last year. All red varieties had great skins and we extracted lovely soft fruit flavours using extended skin contact. Wine lovers should be very excited about the 2004 vintage wines; across the board they are outstanding. Keep an eye out for our first varietal Sauvignon Blanc release in this newsletter. We have been playing around for several years to find a batch of wine worthy of a 100% varietal release. This wine is made in small quantities and is available only through cellar door and mailing list. Cliff Royle, Winemaker (Australian Winemaker of the Year 2002/03)

A blend of 81% cabernet sauvignon, 14% merlot and 5% petit verdot, it spends 24 months in French oak, half new. Deeply coloured, it has a powerful bouquet and even more powerful palate, with layers of blackcurrant and cassis seamlessly interwoven with spicy oak, the tannins strong but perfectly balanced. From Margaret River, WA Drink now-2024 with butterfly leg of lamb; $60, S, 14.2% alc; 96 points & Halliday’s Top 100 – The Weekend Australian November 8-9, 2008

An outstanding Voyager cabernet. It's beautifully balanced too. Deeply flavoured, well structured, softly textured and - dare I say it for an intense young cabernet - delicious to drink. It tastes of chocolate, cassis, liquid pencils and fresh cedarwood, the lot underscored by a throaty, gravelly, brooding intensity. Super wine. Has a long, long future ahead of it. Drink: 2012-2022. 95 points. Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front

An elegant, fresh, slightly firm Cabernet blend which grows on you as you sip. Its just a pup but has attractive leafy, earthy red and dark berry aromas. Delicious flavour and fine balance. It drinks beautifully with pink roast lamb. 94 points Gourmet Traveller Wine

"So utterly beguiling and downright delicious that I can’t stop drinking it – this is Margaret River cabernet at her best. Wound around the core of blueberry, mulberry and black fruits are layers of savoury and spice notes such as liquorice, bay leaf, tobacco and a hint of mint sitting alongside fine soft tannins and cedary yet well-integrated oak. Very plush, succulent and superbly balanced but with all great reds, this needs time. And in a word, outstanding."  Jane Faulkner, The Age 48 Hours Drink Now to 2025

A big wine from a big year. This is 81% Cabernet, 14% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 100% Margaret River. Of recent vintages it reminds me most of the brooding 2001 rather than the charming 2003. Strong and ripe with blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate, violet, some eucalyptus and a good measure of cedar/vanilla oak. On the palate full bodied and generous with flavours of cherry, plum and mulberry, some chocolate richness, a bit of floral mouth perfume, a little tobacco savouriness and sweet vanilla oak in support. It has plenty of ripe earthy gravelly Margaret River tannin, balanced acidity and takes a long line through the mouth. A powerhouse with high potential. Be patient with this one - it needs time to unfurl before it really flies. Alcohol : 14.2%; Price : $60; Closure : Screwcap; Drink : 2014 - 2024+ Gary Walsh; The Wine Front