The 2001, 2002 and 2004 wines under this label are all quite beautiful, but I dare say that this tops them all. It’s certainly the most complete wine yet released by Castagna. It’s beautifully integrated, beautifully proportioned, full of indulgent flavour and then lengthy through the finish. Imagine chomping on a mix of roast pan juices, blueberries, dry chocolates, roast meats and cedar wood, the lot covered in a squishy mix of perfectly ripened blackberries. Yes, I’m a fan. I love it. Drink: 2011-2019. 96 points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front

Here’s a very ripe, finely crafted and deeply flavoured Shiraz from one of Beechworth’s key makers. Sporting more overt ripeness than previous vintages, but retaining that all-important length of vibrant fruit flavour, it manages to avoid over-cooked influences. Its heady, spicy aromas of black pepper, dark plums, cassis and blackberries integrated nearly with mochalike oak and meaty, forest floor undertones. Dark and briary, it’s firm, finegrained and powdery, delivering an excellent length of sour-edged fruit and a hint of minerality that culminate in a long, savoury finish. 18.7/95, drink 2013-2017+ Jeremy Oliver