I have often referred to this wine as 'The King' of Margaret River SBS in much the same way as Cloudy Bay maintains the title over the other side of the pond. The two wines share much more than my admiration; they are both part of the prestigious LMVH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) stable. I first tried this wine on release almost a year ago and was suitably impressed though more than a little intrigued by James Halliday's suggestion to go against the grain of this style and give it some short term cellaring. Now 12 months hardly qualifies for short term but the complexity the wine has gained in the last year is simply amazing propelling the wine from Excellent to Exceptional in my eyes.

Each year around this time we put up a Sauvignon Blanc or blend which becomes a quasi house white for many readers. This summer, consider walking away from the 8246 different versions of the same Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and have a look at this legend of Australian wine at a third off its retail price. For those looking, it offers the tropical passionfruit, citrus, kiwifruit and hint of herb but it also delivers an almost unique extra dimension of textural creaminess, perhaps courtesy of the touch of barrel ferment it sees. It is this mouth-filling character that threatens White Bordeaux more so than the cats you-know-what- examples from NZ. A serious white that also doubles as the quintessential crowd pleaser. Get into it now but don't be afraid to drink over the next 3 or 4 years either. Now - 2014; Quality: Exceptional BW; WineStar© November 2009

Has excellent juicy vinosity on the mid-palate, flavours of lemon, gooseberry and grass all intermingling, the touch of barrel ferment barely visible; excellent balance and length for the short-term cellaring. 95 points, drink to 2013, $27.50, Screwcap, 12.5% alc James Halliday Wine Companion

I’ve been known to wear a tasting cape every now and then in order to increase and focus my powers of perception. No need with Cape Mentelle of course, that would be altogether too much of a good thing. It has the usual attractive greenery of snowpeas and a touch of capsicum spice with lime, passionfruit and hints of pineapple fruit. In the mouth brisk and dry with the barest touch of creaminess. Refreshingly tart, beautifully balanced and presented with a long dry flinty finish ticking the last box for a top score. Rated : 93 Points; Alcohol : 12.5%; Price : $25; Closure : Screwcap; Drink : 2008 - 2012; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

This comes from a warmer year in Margaret River, though you'd never know judging by this. Its bright green watery yellow in colour, opening with a nose of citrus, a little grassy herbaceousness and some riper, mellow characters that I think comes from some barrel work. The nose is actually quite subdued - it’s going to need some patience to show the real herbaceous delineation that I find a memorable characteristic in this wine (and I really like). That nose is incessantly pure and bounding with freshness. The palate follows with tight citrussy fruit & very dry, fierce acidity. It makes the palate very fresh, but it’s not for someone looking for subtlety. I can still taste it, burning on the way down. So this is a very dry, intense, tight and powerful white that is dominated by grapefruity acidity, with hidden delights still to come. I'd suggest abandoning the normal rules with this wine and stick it away for a good 6 months. I can see this good wine being damn good with time. 17.5++ Andrew Graham; Australian Wine Review