An excellent wine from a challenging vintage. Its deep aromas of slightly jammy redcurrqnts, cramberries, cassis and candied red cherries are fully but not over-ripe, with spicy undertones of cloves and cinnamon, plus a smoky background of creamy coconut ice-like oak. There’s a hint of spirit that is also found on the deeply concentrated and sumptuous palate, whose jujube-like berry and plum-like fruit and newish, assertive and slippery oak are neatly framed by loose-knit tannins. Its lingering core of intense flavour finishes licorice-like, with savoury and mineral notes. A richer and more profound Mount Edelstone than ever seen before, and lacking the cooked or dehydrated flavours common from this vintage, it just lacks the exceptional length for a higher rating. (Eden Valley, $92 retail, approx., 18.8/95, drink 2015-2023+) Jeremy Oliver
Bottles in stock: 3
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