There is no need to taste the 2004 Barolo Romirasco, the nose alone is enough to understand that this is magnificent wine. Aromas of tar, roses, menthol, scorched earth and smoke lead to a core of dark red fruit than unfolds onto the palate with uncommon grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass the wine gradually puts on weight, filling out its considerably structured frame with notable class. The last Romirasco was made in 1993. This bottling has typically only been made in vintages where quality is not sufficient for the family to make their top of the line Riserva Granbussia, as was the case in 2004, when the Cicala vineyard was damaged by hail. Conterno told me is so happy with this wine he will probably bottle a small quantity going forward to see how it develops. It will be fascinating to taste future Romirascos next to the Granbussias of the same vintage to evaluate how a single-vineyard wine from what many consider to be one of Bussia’s greatest vineyards compares to the Granbussia blend. Conterno expects to price the Romirasco at the same level or slightly more than the Colonnello. If that turns out to be the case, this will be a superb relative value as well. 95 Points Wine Advocate # 174, Antonio Galloni

Aldo Conterno’s family have been producing the great wines of Piedmont for more than five generations. Their winery is situated in Bussia at Monforte d’Alba and is devoted to the vinification of grapes coming exclusively from their vineyards in the neighboring hills of Alba, which are in the heart of the production zone of Barolo. Eighty percent of the vineyards are exposed south-southwestwards and lay at an altitude of 480m above sea level. The soil is mainly composed of layers of brownish – grey sand of medium density alternated with calcerous white and blueish marl. Conscious work in the vineyard, controlled must fermentation, and traditional systems of ageing combine to produce great wines of fine quality.