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Reds » Other Reds »

Giaconda Nebbiolo 2008

Does Nebbiolo travel? I was just reaching the conclusion that it probably doesn’t fare too well outside of Piedmont when Rick had me try a barrel sample of his 2008 Nebbiolo from about 1.5 acres that have just been included into vines that have been designated for the joint partnership with Chapoutier. Aged in large old oak for 2 years, it will receive another year in barrel before being bottled. Possessing a medium ruby color, the rose petal character on the nose is pretty profound, with quite a lot of tar and some funky game notes Layers of aromas include rose hip tea, tobacco, some loam, a bit of dark chocolate and a touch of anise amongst the stewed Ceylon tea leaves. The medium to full body, crisp acidity and firm, chewy tannins confirm this is a wonderfully varietally expressive wine with a long complex finish. When I was told they were considering grubbing these vines up and replanting with Shiraz I strongly objected that this would be a crime! Personally, I can’t wait to see this wine in bottle...though only around 2000 bottles will be produced.  95-97 points (Barrel sample). Reviewed by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW - Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate June 2010. 

Rick Kinzbrunner fancies himself as a bit of a nebbiolo fan, so six or so years ago he grafted over about half a hectare of the older vine pinot noir in the Giaconda holdings to the Italian variety. The vineyard sits somewhere between 500 and 700 metres above sea level on schist and granite filled soils. The wine matured in a single, large, Italian-made French oak cask and was matured for a longer than anticipated spell. There are follow up vintages, but I am yet to see them. Fresh cherry and floral as the aromas might be, there is a seething depth of char, charcuterie, earth and savouriness that adds seriousness to the bouquet. The palate is slender yet chock full – layered with suggestions of the classic nebbiolo ‘tar and roses’ characters, but shows a drier, mineral edge with bergamot and a warm meatiness that sets this apart from Italian appropriations. Tannins are superb – complex, with herbal inflection, and feel feathery yet taut. Finishes very long, focussed and elegant with a prickle of spice and florals. Superior debut. Rated : 94/95+ Points; Drink : 2012 - 2022+ Mike Bennie; The Wine Front